Chain-Stitch Hem
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Chain-Stitch Hem
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Full size guide →The chain-stitch hem, a workshop service
The chain-stitch hem is a service, not a product. We shorten your raw or selvedge jeans by reproducing the original finish of American denims, on a machine made for it: an Union Special 43200G, a vintage industrial machine dedicated to denim hemming. The work is done in our workshop at 12 rue du Prieuré, in Toulouse.
- Location: the hem is done in our workshop at 12 rue du Prieuré in Toulouse, France
- Detail: Union Special 43200G
- Detail: chain stitch
- Detail: roping effect
For which jeans
The chain-stitch hem is meant for raw and selvedge denims, like our Japanese selvedge jeans. On a very fine or very stretchy denim, the roping effect is less marked.
When roping appears
After a few washes, once the chain stitch has shrunk and made the cloth work. Between washes, our odour spray lets you space out machine washes.
Dropping off or sending your jeans
The hem is done in our Toulouse workshop. To send them or arrange an appointment, write to us. If the jeans also need a repair at the crotch or knee, see our repair service on a Singer 47W70.
Interlocking loops
The chain stitch forms a series of loops caught in one another, like the links of a chain; on a machine, each loop is caught under the fabric before the next one hooks into it. A modern hem, by contrast, is made in a lock stitch, whose threads cross in the thickness. The difference appears in the wash: the chain stitch shrinks more than the cloth and makes the bottom of the trousers wave slightly. That is the roping effect, the twist you see on vintage jeans; a lock-stitch hem stays flat.
How the job goes
The existing hem is first taken out cleanly, without marking the cloth. If needed, the length is recut to your measurement. The new hem is then sewn in chain stitch on the Union Special, then the regularity of the stitch and the alignment of the seams are checked. The darker selvedge edge of the original hem generally stays visible, a mark denim lovers want to keep.
Patina and durability
In three years, your hem will have made its roping.
We shorten your raw or selvedge jeans on an Union Special 43200G, a vintage industrial machine dedicated to denim hemming, in our workshop at 12 rue du Prieuré in Toulouse. The chain stitch shrinks more than the cloth: with each wash, the bottom waves. That is the roping effect. Here is how it appears.
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firm material, solid color, clean finishes.
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the piece softens where it works the most.
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wear creases mark themselves and return from one wear to the next.
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follow the composition instructions; excessive heat and tumble dryers are to be avoided.
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borders and friction zones soften first.
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the color shades with use, without aging all at once.
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the piece is made: supple, familiar, always holding.
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a seam, a button, a snag is mended in the workshop.
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nearly three years: a well-kept piece gains in character what it loses in newness.
A modern hem stays flat forever. The chain stitch lives with your jeans and gives them back the finish of the original American denims. For €26, your jeans get the right length and the detail connoisseurs look at first.
TIMELESS CLASSICS
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Order
Yes, we ship worldwide. Shipping costs are automatically calculated when you place your order. Delivery is free in France and Belgium for orders over €150, in Europe for orders over €300, and worldwide for orders over €400.
Delivery times vary depending on the destination: 2 to 5 business days in France, 2 to 8 days in Europe, and up to 16 days for the rest of the world. You will receive a tracking link as soon as the order is shipped.
Of course! Returns and exchanges are free in France and Belgium for all orders over €150. You have 14 days to try on your items at home and return them if necessary.
Each product sheet contains a detailed size guide and fitting advice. Please contact our customer service team for personalized advice before purchasing.
Our garments are crafted with premium materials, such as Japanese selvedge denim and French wool from Tournier, and assembled in our Toulouse workshop using traditional machines. They're designed to last and become more beautiful over time.
Founded in 2015, Champ de Manœuvres is a renowned French brand recommended by numerous menswear experts. Our customer service team is available to assist you.
Each product comes with tailored care instructions. We favor durable, easy-care materials to ensure your clothes last a long time.
You can contact us via our contact page or by email. Our team will be happy to respond quickly and provide advice.
